Tuta's Wine

Writing under the Influence

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Dupéré Barrera Côtes de Provence 2008

February 12th, 2011 · No Comments · Color, Country, France, Red

Nous avons notre propre vision du vin, nous sommes dans le monde du vin sans être du monde du vin.

We have our own perspective.   We live in the world of wine without being entirely of it.

- Le Blog des Dupéré Barrera

One beloved model — or trope as we said in college –for winemaking is the family which makes wine on its own land.  This is the ancient dream from the Garden — a green place, hilly, the sun just on the horizon, with many generations at work together.  But it is a big world, and there are other visions at play among us.  One of the most intriguing is the young négociant who focuses on the winemaking side of things, buying grapes and remaining free to invent a mash-up of equipment, tradition, technique, and style.  In the world but not bound by it.

Emanuelle Dupéré, a singer, and Laurent Barrera, a geological engineer, abandoned their day jobs for wine school and went into the wine business in Provence in 2000.   Their wines rely on the traditional Rhône blend:  the workhorse Grenache with the lunatic uncle Mourvèdre,  the spicy aunt Cinsault, the sweet, daffy sister Syrah … we know this family.  To these are added a stranger to the region: Cabernet Sauvignon.  The young négociants bring an enthusiasm for craft.  Old barrels purchased from famous vineyards, great care in handling the young wine (no pumping, filtering, or fining) and close attention to the state of the moon.  (Don’t knock what you don’t understand.)

The result is rather splendid.  I tried the 2008 Côtes de Provence.  A Rhône without that briar-y rasp, that faintly nasal tone which is the taste marker for the region.  This one runs smooth and deep.  Blackberry is a reasonable estimate of the flavor, but what you will love is the authority and friendly grip of the wine.  The label promises Très Longue Macération — skins and pulp in contact with the fresh juice for as long as 7 weeks, the stems removed to limit the tannins.  The trombone qualities of the cabernet are welcome here — stabilizing and foundational.   Too international?  Have we strayed too far from local wine?  No, this is a free expression, built with care.  I gave myself up for lost and bought six bottles.

About $35.

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