Walla Walla. Eastern Washington State — no trees; great brown hills; cold in the winter – hot in the summer. More Steinbeck than Stendhal. Who would think that you could make cabernet — the wine of politesse and great houses — in such a … western setting. But the Walla Walla wines are wonderful: American garagiste blends made skillfully and without pretense. These are committed people. No one moves to Walla Walla to show off a fortune made in another place. You could say they come here despite themselves.
Waters Winery provides a fine example of a big, generous Walla Walla wine. Interlude is simply labeled “red wine.” It is a blend of cabernet, merlot and what we could only call les autres. The word that came to me first was “sumptuous.” This is a very rich Bordeaux style wine. Forward, perfumed — a young Bordelaisee in heels. Can we be more specific with less frothy enthusiasm? Maybe. The wine is dark in the glass. In the nose and at the end of the glass, there is chocolate — that bandit Aztec chocolate which is not sweet. The fruit is ripe — a yellow peach, leather and plum. The feel of the wine in your mouth is smooth and without pucker.
I would not keep this bottle for long — I would share it quickly and look for a second. And I would serve it before dinner. Dessert before the meal. At most with a little blue cheese and some water crackers. The richness of this wine — its fatty heft — needs no food to share the billing.